Mt. Makalu (8,463 m) is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It is an isolated peak located about 22 km east of Mt. Everest along the Nepal-Tibet border. The size of this Himalayan giant alone is impressive, but its structure, which is shaped like a perfect four-sided pyramid clearly marked by four sharp ridges, makes Mt. Makalu all the more spectacular and alluring to behold. The mountain has two notable subsidiary peaks – Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7,678 m), which lies about 3 km north-northwest of the main summit and Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m) that rises about 5 km northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau and is connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow 7,200m saddle.
Makalu has proven to be a challenging high altitude climb as only five of the first 16 attempts that were made on the peak were successful. In fact, the mountain is one of the harder eight-thousand meter peaks and is considered to be one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements of the weather. The final ascent of the summit actually involves technical rock climbing skills. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000m hulk which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions. The mountain was first conquered by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco in May 1955. The French team climbed Makalu following the north face and northeast ridge via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse and, in the process, established the standard route.
Mike Bronson, Denver, Colorado, USA
Chuck Ramey, Tacoma, WA. USA
Aley Mills Willis, Seattle, WA. USA